Daytrippers in Danshui

Today we took the MRT out to a place called Danshui. The hotel breakfast is uninspiring (orange squash, piles of cold fried eggs and a toaster that takes 3 goes round to make your toast light brown) so we thought we’d find somewhere in the station for breakfast instead. The trouble is, nothing opens until 11. Except Starbucks – you can always rely on Starbucks.

Danshui is a long way out. It’s a popular weekend destination for Taipeites and sure enough, it had a relaxed seaside feel to it. If you can imagine a Chinese Porthcawl (the one I remember from the 1980s at least) you’ll get the idea. There was a kind of esplanade next to the river with amusement arcades and shops selling souvenirs and snacks. But, instead of sticks of rock and fish and chips, you could get iron eggs and dried squid. I wonder if the modern day Porthcawl is having a doughnut war the way Taipei is. Mister Donut is competing aggressively with Dunkin Donuts everywhere we go. I’ve never had so many free samples.

We wanted to see Fort Santo Domingo which was originally built by the Spanish in 1629, demolished and re-build by the Dutch in 1644 and then taken over by the British in 1688 and added to when it became the consulate’s residence in 1891. It was finally handed over to the Republic of China in 1971 and today it is a listed building and a museum. We walked along the edge of the river and judged that we had gone too far so walked back. By the time we got to the fort, we were dripping with sweat as it was a steaming hot day. We eventually found the entrance and had to walk up a load more steps in the heat. Urgh! It was worth the effort however. I love visiting forts. Last year we spent a few hours at Fort Siloso in Singapore which was brilliant.



Inside this fort we learned about the history, the Dutch trading era and the life of the British consuls. The living area was very nice complete with a grand dining room and old-fashioned parlour. Through the windows was a view of the sea and Taipei city in the distance. I could live there on one condition; that they installed air conditioning. I don’t know how they managed without it. Each room had a fireplace – does this mean that it actually gets chilly enough to light a fire, or is it just a recreation of an English house complete with fireplaces?











After visiting the fort, we had lunch in the elegant tea gardens outside. It’s always fun to find a bit of British tradition in unlikely places (especially if it involves tea).

We wandered through the old street which led back to the station. It was crowded with day trippers.